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Sharp SF-8300 Prints 1/2 good 1/2 light or blank

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Post time: 2013-5-2 06:42:42 |Show all posts
I got a sharp sf-8300 copying 1/2 the page good the other 1/2 is blank or real light. I replaced the blank lamp (the row of red ones), the corna wires. This one has me stumped I keep getting call backs. Works fine for a while then messes up again. It's the 8.5 x 11 letter paper. Thanks in advance.

Post time: 2013-5-2 15:12:10 |Show all posts
replace the door interlock switch. i know it sounds crazy but i've seen the same situation--many years ago.

Post time: 2013-5-2 14:01:38 |Show all posts
This machine made 3 copys for me with the 1/2 prints and the rest were ok. I hate it when this happens. I declare all looks good the drum the developer and replaced not to long ago. Corna wires look good I looked in the back where the c/w's make connection and look good back there too. Has the new updated c/w's in it. One thing and this makes no sence to me so don't cuss me but it seemed that when I opened the door and cheated it that it worked but like if I shut the door it messed up one time call me crazy. I cannot figure a door switch would cause this?? I have tried to sell them a machine but they keep fixing this box of crap. My weakness is I'm a tec not a salesman. I always want to fix it. Sharp has been a good product for us. They keep going and going. I still have a SF-8100 I still service. Thanks for all the advice.

Post time: 2013-5-2 12:58:25 |Show all posts
Is your machine level front to back??? Look at your mag roller to see if the dev looks even.  Can't think of anything else. Or did you try to clean the drum with some chemicel??? How many copies on the drum and dev???
You really need to put your saleman hat on cause this puppy is like old old old. Parts?? Good luck.
Let us know what the fix was if you get it figured out.
Mr. Bill

Post time: 2013-5-2 11:30:06 |Show all posts
I HAVE THE FIX. TAKE THE HVT UNIT OFF THE BACK OF MACHINE. THERE IS A REAL THIN V SHAPED METAL TAB THAT CONTACTS THE MC GRID. YOU WILL SEE IT FOLDED OVER ON ITSELF.CAREFULLY BEND IT OPEN,BEING CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK IT. NOW, FILL THE OPENING BETWEEN THE V WITH CLEAR SILICONE CAULK.LET IT HARDEN OVERNIGHT AND PROBLEM FIXED FOR 2-3 YEARS TILL THE SILICONE BREAKS DOWN.ALSO,THERE WAS A NEW STYLE REAR MC CORONA BLOCK AND GRID.THIS WORKED EVERY TIME.ALSO, THE PLASTIC SPRINGY CLIPS ON FRONT BLOCK LOOSEN UP OR BREAK OFF ALLOWING MC UNIT TO SLIDE OUT A LITTLE. LOCKING IT IN AS DESCRIBED IN PREVIOUS POST IS A GOOD IDEA.
GOOD LUCK.
MARK (DOCTOR COPY)

Post time: 2013-5-2 10:22:53 |Show all posts
Is the image on the drum ?  Stop in mid cycle and check.  If it is then the transfer corona is arking.

Post time: 2013-5-2 09:06:58 |Show all posts
I have found that if the charge corona wire is not tight enough it can vibrate and arc out halfway through the copy.  Also, a poor connection on the grid can cause all kinds of problems

Post time: 2013-5-2 07:56:43 |Show all posts
I seem to remember having to screw a retainer in to hold the main charge ass'y. This could be done easily by placing a washer under the screw just below the m/c. Been a long time, though.
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